Sewing Tutorial: Shirt Collar and Stand

This method is used for traditional dress shirt collars, shirt dresses, and some blouses.

Collar Pattern Pieces: 

You should have these pieces from your pattern: 

1. Upper Collar (outer, visible side) 

2. Under Collar (inner side—can be the same or different fabric) 

3. Upper Collar Stand 

4. Under Collar Stand 

Typically, the upper collar and upper stand are interfaced for structure. 

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS: 

1. Interface the Pieces 

• Fuse interfacing to: 

• Upper Collar 

• Upper Collar Stand 

2. Sew the Collar 

• Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together. 

• Stitch along the long outer edge and the two short sides (leave the neckline edge open). 

• Trim seam allowances, grade them, and clip corners. 

• Turn the collar right side out and press sharply, making sure the corners are crisp. 

• Topstitch around the outer edges if desired (typically 1/8″ from edge). 

3. Attach Collar to Collar Stand 

• Sandwich the collar between the two collar stand pieces: 

• The right side of the collar against the right side of the upper collar stand. 

• Lay the under collar stand on top, right side down. 

• Align all raw edges along the neckline edge of the collar. 

• Stitch through all layers along this edge (neckline edge of the stand). 

• Trim and grade the seam. 

• Turn the collar stand pieces right side out and press. 

4. Prepare to Attach Collar to Shirt 

• Staystitch the neckline of your shirt (optional but helpful). 

• Pin or clip the under collar stand (the one without interfacing) right sides together with the shirt neckline. 

• Match notches and center back. 

5. Stitch the Collar Stand to the Shirt 

• Stitch the under collar stand to the shirt neckline. 

• Press the seam allowance upward into the collar stand. 

6. Finish the Inside of the Collar Stand 

• Turn the seam allowance of the upper collar stand under (fold it in), enclosing the raw edges inside. 

• Press and pin or baste in place. 

• From the outside of the shirt, topstitch all the way around the collar stand close to the edge, catching the folded edge of the inner collar stand underneath. 

Final Touches 

• Press everything neatly. 

• Check that your collar sits evenly. 

• Topstitch again if you want a double line or decorative finish. 

Care Tips: 

• Press your collar well during construction—it makes a huge difference. 

• Use a point turner or chopstick to get crisp collar corners. 

Lightweight interfacing gives a softer look, while heavier interfacing provides more structure—choose depending on your style.